Eating well on the road

Eat well, without the trip turning into a restaurant search.

On a trip for two, dinner is the part of the day that carries the most and gets planned the least. Here is what regularly goes wrong, and what I take on.

The hardest question is the hotel restaurant

A hotel restaurant is, in operational terms, a cost centre. The same kitchen does breakfast for two hundred guests, room service, and then, if there is capacity left, dinner à la carte. In a great many very good houses the restaurant is therefore the weakest part of the stay, and that appears in no description.

But there are houses where it is the other way round: their own chef, their own menu, their own entrance. You can spot it from a single signal, and it costs nothing to check: do people from outside come there to eat? If people from the town book a table although they are not staying, the kitchen is real. If only hotel guests are sitting there in the evening, you are eating the second-best option, every night.

From which follows the second question almost nobody asks in time: half board sounds convenient and quietly removes your reason to leave the building. Over seven nights that means the same kitchen seven times. Sometimes that is exactly right, because there is nothing around. Often it is not, and you notice on day four.

What I take on

Four things that happen before you leave

Not a list of recommendations, but decisions already made.

01

Reading the house

Whether the restaurant in the hotel is worth the evening, or whether you are better off spending the good evenings elsewhere. And whether half board makes sense at this house in this location, or would simply hold you in place.

02

Three to five addresses, not thirty

Each one comes with what it is good for and which evening it suits. The place for the night you arrive tired is not the place for the evening you have been looking forward to.

03

Reservations where they are difficult

At places with few tables or long lead times I book myself, with the time, the occasion and anything you do not eat. Where you can walk in on the day, I tell you so and you decide on the spot. I write down which is which beforehand, so it is clear what I am handling and what I am not.

04

Intolerances, before you are at the table

What you do not eat goes to the house in writing, not verbally to the waiter. The difference shows up in the kitchen, not in the service.

Plainly

When you do not need me for this

If you like setting off and seeing what catches your eye: that is one of the better ways to travel, and I am reluctant to take it away from you. I plan the evenings that have to be planned and leave the rest open.

If you are going to eat in the house anyway, because the hotel is remote or because that is what you want, reading the house is enough. That needs no separate list.

And in cities with very dense dining you will find plenty yourself. There my work pays for the two or three places you cannot get into at short notice, not for the whole week.

Why I can judge this

I know hotel food and beverage from the inside. At EHL and at the Park Hyatt Zurich I saw how kitchen, service and costing hang together. That is why I read a menu and an opening time differently: they tell you how many people are standing at the back and how seriously a house takes the evening business.

I cook myself. That sounds like a pleasant detail and is the reason I can judge a plate. If you cook, you recognise craft, and you equally recognise a dish that only looks like effort.

I have eaten a great deal while travelling, from street kitchens to restaurants with a waiting list. On its own that is no argument, any traveller can say the same. It does help with the question of when one is better than the other.

And I know people in the industry, through EHL. That helps when I want an honest word about a house. It does not help with a table in Tokyo, and I do not claim it does.

A plate with edible flowers and herbs
A bowl with grains, avocado, a poached egg and a flower
A plate of fried seafood with a herb salad

My own photographs, taken while travelling.

Next step

Tell me where you want to go.

No obligation and no charge. An answer within 48 hours, even if the answer is that the budget will not stretch to this trip.

Plan a trip
Plan a trip